11th Nov – Day 5, Temple 44 (Daihouji)

My hardest day to wake up so far. Even with the heater, it was still pretty cold inside. Alarm rang at 6am, but too tired to wake up. Set half an hour later to catch more sleep. Fixed my blisters and hence took a longer time to get ready today. But, as advised in the guide I read, the first rule of the pilgrimage was not to rush yourself. This was not an easy rule since I’m a person who likes to rush things up. I always had to keep reminding myself every morning, during the walk and many other times.

While having breakfast, my devil and angel were having an argument. The devil was complaining that I should save the small pieces of tape for my feet and use the big one I had for my hip. But the big one had already been well kept inside my backpack, and so he suggested to fix my hip in the evening instead. He was lazy too in fact. The angel made a big fuss and condemned that how could we sacrifice safety and injury over a small amount of money on the tape! They compromised to fix the hip immediately using the small tape instead.

It was a very cold morning. My hands were numb from the cold water. Managed to finish off my dry and expired-for-a-day donuts! The coffee I bought at the same vending machine was bigger cup for 90yen, but today, I selected a 100yen coffee and yet the portion was smaller!

Keeping rule one in mind all the time, I started my trail at around 8:30am. It was back to the Route 380 highway again, for the next 4.8km. I started to daydream. About meeting Vivian Hsu at one of the temple! She was also doing her pilgrimage in the comfort of her car. She saw me and gave me a signature and a good luck message!!

I woke up again and the next path was a tough 0.5km uphill climb!! Then, I passed through a short tunnel and back to another 4km of highway trail. Met the 10th phone that didn’t work. Just like yesterday, the journey had been so smooth like it had applied the Shiseido’s SKII! Only a short hiccup at a junction. But, the right track was confirmed pretty soon with a henro sign after I had taken a few many steps. It seemed like a game to test your common sense. Once you had decided which route, you will find out your answer later when you see the henro sign. But if you don’t, you could be wrong, or your answer might not be revealed so soon yet! Personally, I thought some of the signs were overkill at certain path, but some route were lack of it, especially at the junctions. Once, I saw two signs separated by just 20 steps away. And other times, I didn’t notice any at the junctions or after a long walk on a certain path.

Met an old man who shook my hand and wished me luck. Back in the jungle again shortly for a 1.2km hike up. Suddenly, I heard a tri-tone on my phone. Wifi in a jungle?! Oh no, just an SMS from Docomo! During the walk, I realized my left side was weaker. My left shoulder got tired sooner, my left hip had bruises and my left feet were all blistered as well. Actually, my feet was ok walking on the ground, but it hurts when walking too long on the “car-moving” (what’s that term?) road. Soon, I started to decend again. It was actually tougher. Although I didn’t feel much discomfort on my baggage, the toes and knees actually hurt a lot. During the last part of the journey, I almost took the wrong way. Luckily, the path I chosen didn’t look very walkable! My common sense worked!!

Finally at 1:30pm, I reached the town. Quickly stop at the nearest Udon restaurant as shown on the map. This shop allowed you to select the ingredient you wanted. I thought just udon must be cheap. So, I picked a potato (50yen) that I thought was an egg plant. A fish (80yen) that I thought was a potato. And a plate of fried chicken for 200yen. But I was slightly shocked to see the total as 680yen. The aunty earlier kept pouring bowl and bowl of udon into a sift. I couldn’t concentrate on her action and what she said at the same time, until she eventually stopped and said “mo?” (More?) Oh, I gave a stop sign immediately. Don’t know how many bowls she had poured in, but one bowl lesser would be just nice and not too much I supposed. While having my meal, I noticed a big menu that said udon for 350yen! I had misjudged the aunty wrongly. This is Japan, kid! Not the countries you came from! (Please note that plural were used to be impartial) I was not sure if it was me or mere human nature. The moment I knew that the udon was all you can eat, I even managed to finish up the whole bowl of soup as well! My previous claim suddenly became not valid anymore!

I was so full that I could hardly walk. Along the way, I stopped by one of the lodging I planned to call. They said 3500yen without food. I thought this could be my last resort, if I couldn’t find the free accommodation. I walked to look for public phone but just couldn’t find one. Then I reached the town office and thought of giving it a try. But no luck, the staff was basically just using internet to search for accommodation. She found one without food at 4000yen and thought it was the cheapest, but I didn’t want to mention about the 3500yen I just asked next few shops away. She used the online translator to communicate with me when I couldn’t get what she meant. Anyway, she was really nice and tried to make a few calls for me and even suggested sleeping out inside a bus stop outside a building. But the place was 3km away! She said it took only 10minutes by car. I thanked her very much for the effort and left. Saw a phone just outside the town council but thought I would make her feel better by calling somewhere else instead. And that was a bad move! I couldn’t find any phone at all! So, I decided to go to the Temple 44 and check out there. On the way, I met a young Japanese guy who was walking the trail as well. He was pretty cool. He started from Kochi city and took him 10days to reach Temple 44. When I asked where he was staying for the night, he just smiled and pointed at the side of the road! He was amazing! I asked “samui desuka” (Is it cold?) Actually I wanted to ask “samukunai desuka” (Not cold?) But he understood my question and said he had a very good sleeping bag.

I reached the Temple 44 shortly, prayed and got my stamp. Then, I asked the temple in charge on lodging, but no luck. I met the young Japanese guy again. He actually was not in the henro attire. He didn’t come to pray or get any stamp as well. I heard a lot of young Japanese do that, just for the fun and excitement and challenge of walking the trail! Finally, found a vending machine with the Pocari sweet drink that Yap’s mentioned. Bought one and left.

I almost had the urge to move on to the next town 2.6km away, but the first rule reminded me again. Went back to town and walked further up to look for a public phone but still couldn’t find one! Probably it wasn’t work too, if I did! Then I reached the last convenience store. I asked the shop owner if there was a public phone around. He was very nice and could speak perfect English! He borrowed his line phone for me to make a number of calls. First, 4300yen. Out. The free lodging I planned to stay, no answer. One more to go, but the guy on the other line couldn’t understand me. I asked the shop owner for help and he managed to find out 4000yen without food as well. I thanked him very very much and left to look for the park. I decided to save 3500yen and go for my second attempt on camping!

Took a long walk to the park. On the way, saw a group of school kids and asked them for direction. They were all in yellow cap. Forgotten to take a picture. At the park, found a spot but the ground was too hard to stuck in my pegs. Decided on the slightly slanted patch, next to a running track. My skill had improved much and by 20minutes or so, I managed to set up a decent tent, just in time before it got dark! As I walked to the convenient store, I noticed the lights were suddenly all turned on and my tent was pretty visible at the corner! I was worried someone might see it, although it was empty. I left my backpack inside the toilet. I had no other options but to make my trip a quick one.

Another long 20 minutes walk to the same store. Bought 1657yen of stuffs, mainly food and a luxury item, deodorant! =] Since I could heat up my dinner, I had it first before I came back to my tent. So that I don’t have to eat cold meal again! So, I sat on the steps outside a pachinko building enjoying my beef rice. It was a bargain at 398yen!

Came back in an hour time, and found my 11th faulty public phone. Did I miss out something? It couldn’t be this bad, I thought. Couldn’t call home yet. I let out a sigh. When I was near the running track, I noticed there was some training going on. Three runners were practicing their loop. I tried to update my blog but the power plug was too far from the only light source I had around. Soon, my laptop battery went low. I was surprised there were many cars passing by the park area! Perhaps, there was some residential area somewhere inside. So, I went to clean up and it was already 9:30pm. Since I was too tired, I decided to sleep early so that I could wake up earlier to pack up my tent!

Today, I walked about 18km.

10th Nov – Day 4, Oda Town

Woke up at 5:40am and thought I could sleep longer, but 6 minutes before the alarm rang, I was up. I remembered to do some warm up today. Went down to the bridge to pray. Took out my name slips and the pigeon thought I had food for them. There were many huge fish on the river too.

By 7:12am, I started off my journey again. Passed by a shop and smell some really nice fried fish. Along the way, there were many schools as well. Thought I better stop greeting everyone who passed by me, like a crazy man. But wait! Crazy was what I wanted to be. That was what this trip was about! =] Out of no way, I suddenly got a wifi access! Anyway, I just moved on. Saw a public phone and thought I should stop to call the accommodation and it was about an hour walk already as well. But the phone was faulty. The “almost work” theory doesn't seem to apply to me. I had already hit 3 failures out of maybe 6 that I’d used!

Today, the path was pretty easy, and I did not get lost for the first time. It was mainly following the main road. I tried to save my watch’s battery in order to use the GPS continuously. But after 4 hours plus, the GPS switched off automatically due to low battery. I guessed it was not full charged.

Although I don’t have the henro gear, I thought I had my own attire instead. My near transparent poncho looked like the white vest (hakui), the umbrella represented the walking staff (kongozue) and my water bottle kept banging on my backpack as I walked, creating sound like a bell (jirei)! I realized one more thing. When I was going uphill, I needed to use “low gear”, which was my hand or shoulder to support the weight of my backpack. On flat road, I can use “high gear” where my hips and legs could provide more support. When you are walking for too long, you tend to think a lot of funny things.

I found another phone, but still 12min near my rest time. Thought I should make the call since it was 9am already. Did not check it out first and unload my backpack. Coincidently, it was not working too!! My 4th one! Soon, I met the 5th one. But I was smarter now and checked it first before I unload. You see, everytime I unload, it took some effort to pick it up again. I felt like a weight-lifter whenever I did that. By the 7th phone, I guessed I had no luck with public phones in Japan. The percentage now could already qualified that the public phones here were “almost not working” for me!

Today, I really met the first walking henro!! She was a Japanese lady from Tokushima, Shikoku, in late 30! That was before I asked her age. She was already 60!! I sweared she was 60 years old because she said age of 60 was a yakudoshi (unlucky/critical year) for Japanese. She was doing the pilgrimage to pray for better. She started from Temple 1 near her place and I thought I heard she mentioned she had been walking for 40days already! The lady henro was fast. After I rested my 5 minutes, she caught up pretty soon later. In fact, we were almost on the same speed. Except maybe my steps were big only. That was before I realized I was wrong. At one point in time, we were walking together and chatted for a while. She didn’t want to hold me back and suggested me to go first. But in actual fact, I could hardly keep up with her pace!! Soon, she was out of my sight!! I finally saw her, but we went for a different path. There were 2 ways to Temple 44. Route 379 and Route 380. That was when I realized what 379 and 380 she was talking about earlier. Her plan actually covered my original 2 days itinerary!

It was 12pm caused I heard the bell rang somewhere. My stomach’s bell had also rung. Had an apple to tame it first! There weren’t any restaurants for lunch along the way at all, and no convenience stores as well. By 1pm, I had already reached my intended lodging area. Since it was still early to walk further, I went for Route 380 path. I guess that was why I didn’t get to call the lodging this morning. I wouldn’t need to stay there anyway. Although Route 380 was 3km longer, I’d checked out the free lodging guide and noticed there was one called Doyama Daishi Hall, over at a small town, Oda, which was also nearer.

I also met another Japanese henro, in his late 40 (I did not ask his age, but maybe I should guess late 50 instead after the experience from the lady henro earlier). He was doing his pilgrimage in bicycle. He also mentioned he had done the trail 5 times!! He looked very experience and professional, and I noticed his wrist had a Suunto watch as well =]

It was a cool and cloudy day. Today’s trail had been following this Oda river, which was really clear and clean. Felt like jumping in for a swim!! While I was on the Route 380 highway, I realized one more thing. The shoulders were the strongest, but once they were tired, it was very hard to continue because it felt very uncomfortable. By now, I was already half dead. I had my “pump it up” playlist turned on in my iTune to distract me. I just smiled to each driver that drove passed me. Some of them noticed! I was crazy.

After what I had two days ago, camping wasn’t seemed so fun anymore. I was hoping I could find the free lodging. Finally, I reached the town area and noticed the town office (to ask where Doyama Daishi Hall) was one more km away only. I pressed my “accelerator” but the speed of my legs remained constant. Saw a group of school kids, and yell “Konnichiwa” (hello) to them. They just stared at me in amazed. Soon, I saw the Doyama Daishi Hall sign! Needless to go the town office anymore, I asked for direction and bingo! It was just very close by. Holy cow! I had walked about 27.9km today, and the tiredness of my calves and shoulders and the bottom of my feet were beyond explanation!

The free lodging used to be a great place. There was a TV and kitchen as well, besides those I had at Bangai 8 last night. But when I was there, the place had become very run down. I guessed no one was maintaining it anymore. I tried to use the vacuum cleaner to tidy up but it was not working. Luckily, there was still a clean area, where the Doyama Daishi statue was. Anyway, anything more than a place to sleep for free, was a bonus for me! The TV was still working! Not that I was keen to watch it. Left my stuff there and checked out the area for food. Nothing was left opened after 3:30pm. Got a couple of hot potato cakes with a cup of coffee, but great enough to fill up the stomach. Went back to clean up and got my bed (ground sheet with a mat and sleeping bag) ready. Then, came out for dinner. Tested out the 8th public phone. I wondered when would I find a working one! Couldn’t believe I found a free wifi at a restaurant. Quickly went back to get my laptop and did my big business in a clean toilet on the way. The milk and yogurt had been very helpful indeed. I could do it as smooth as the skin of a Miss Universe already. Had an udon and spent 2 hours there until it closed at 8pm.

It was a very cold night. Even with the heater around me, I was still shivering! Finally done with my blog and went to bed at 10:30pm.

9th Nov – Day 3, Bangai 8 (Toyogahashi)

When I woke up at 5:30am, my legs were so heavy, I wondered if I could walk! Last night, I unpacked my tent to dry them up. It seemed all ok this morning. I could camp again! After my chore, I had my rice cakes for breakfast and suddenly felt the mood for被遗忘的时光 by Cai Yun, and had it on my iPhone. Amazingly, the heater worked again this morning!! I wanted to bid those great guys farewell, but they were not around. It was a very windy and cool day. The strong wind made my face stiffen. I had my sweater and jacket on the whole morning, and only took out the sweater later in the afternoon, but still had my jacket on, because it was very chilly when the wind blew.

I started around 7:20am. Very soon, I saw a trail sign that pointed me to a different direction. Not wanting to get lost so soon in the morning, I took the same way down from where I came yesterday. I walked pretty fast along the way, just following the signs. But, I never came back to the two-way T-junction that almost got me lost yesterday. I switched on my iTune for the first time, but decided the sounds of the wind and the birds were nicer then. After 3km, I finally reached the main road with 3 ways. One sign shows “Bangai 7”, the other going downwards to a town I was not familiar and the 3rd one was to Ozu and Takayama. Exactly the place I was supposed to head to. But after 800m, I don’t see any henro sign and sadly thought of returning. I took a short rest and changed my mind to move on. I was lucky. Just a few steps ahead, I met the restaurant owner on her way driving to work and after she left I found the henro trail!! But there were 3 separate routes again. I followed the one with a henro sign, and met the first person walking on the same trail with me!! He was a mid-aged Japanese in full henro suit, but without any backpack. He said he started from the Iyo-Hirano train station. So, I thought I wasn’t on the track that I wanted to follow. Nevertheless, I had not been through the one I was walking too. When I reached the main road, there were yet again 3 paths to choose. I remembered the o-henro-san mentioned he came from the left side, and so I took the left. After a long decent, I reached the main road again, which I thought was the one that would lead me to the Iyo-Hirano train station. I was happy thinking I was in good hands following the road, and started to sing an Eason’s song and then blew the pipe I bought from Tian Zi Fang, Shanghai, although I don’t know how to! Suddenly, I came to a dead-end!! It was not like this when I was here yesterday! Luckily there were local for me to ask direction. I tried to get the attention of the locals down at the field. When I’ve taken off my backpack, I walked like a floating man. Soon, I realized I was nearer to Nishi Ozu station already, which was even better! It was half way between the Iyo-Hirano station and the destination I wanted to go earlier. In a way, I got it half right to the track I wanted to follow. So another 800m I reached the station. Fortunately, I asked for direction often. I almost wanted to go the wrong way again. From there, I saw the map and could join back to the henro path to Ozu town centre. It was another long walk. Got very tired already. At last, I reached the town and looking for a place to had my lunch. None of them displayed any price list. In the end, I found one with a nice exterior. Thought it might be expensive. But there was one set lunch with udon and rice! Too hungry and tired to look for other places and paid 800yen for that. I could hardly move my legs after 15km walking in 4hrs and 41min, stopping for my usual 5min break.

The Bangai 8 was just another 2km away. I continued along the road, and found it easily. I thought it was under the bridge. Prayed and got my stamp. Then, I asked the temple staff if there was a free accommodation here. He didn’t seem very friendly and told me something about the toilet in front. I didn’t want to ask further and went to the toilet and found out the place just next to it! This was so far the best accommodation that I had! You just go in, use it, and leave it just as how it was looked like when you went in. It came with futons (bed) and duvets (blankets) as well! There was also a powerful working heater! I quickly left my backpack behind and couldn’t wait for my bath at the nearby onsen. Accordingly to the staff there, it was not an onsen but an “ofuro” (bath place). Perhaps, they don’t consider it an onsen if it was man-made. Paid 350yen and rushed in. Shower gels were all provided except towel. And so for about 20mintes, I had the longest bath of my life, washing almost every surface of my body! After that, it was heaven soaking in the onsen, no, I meant hot bath. There even had one outdoor! I took my time, cleaning my ears and had my hair blown. And then dry cleaned up my jacket too. There was a weight machine, and was stunned to find out I’ve lost 5kg in 3 days!! Or may 13days, if the farming days were included! And I thought I ate a lot!! Guiltily bought milk from a vending machine for 100yen outside the bath house! It was delicious!

After that was laundry time. I had quite a lot to wash. Dumped everything into one of the machine, but soon realized, I was paying to dry it! The machine actually could wash as well as dry for 700yen. I wasted 100yen drying my dirty clothes. Then, I used the cheapest washing machine there of 8kg load. 400yen per wash, but it needed detergent. So, I had to get some portable one from a supermarket nearby for 105yen. The wash would not complete until 35minutes later. I went to shop around the supermarket walking each and every shelf on display! Shopping was fun. Eventually, I bought a 105yen yogurt (half price), 150yen for 3 apples (rejected stuff), 200yen bread (7 of them) and a 138yen milk! On my way out of the supermarket, I saw the staff at the bakery throwing away some of the bread!! What a waste, I thought. If only I could get those from them earlier! My laundry was done, but the only 12minutes dryer for 100yen was occupied. So, I had to use the 10minutes dryer for 100yen. When the time was up, some of them were still damped! Had to slot in another 100yen! As a result, I spent 805yen and 55mins, instead of the 700yen wash for 50mins!

When back to my lodging to keep my stuff and then look for dinner. Wanted to eat pizza at first, but McDonald appeared a better choice in terms of cheaper cash and the larger serving. Then, I was also trying to check out if there was free wifi. And I really did found one!! So, I looked out the surrounding for seats and found a restaurant. Not too expensive and immediately went it! In fact, the rice I ordered was very nice. Some kind of ginger rice for 680yen. But the wifi access was weak. I could only upload 2 days of event but no pictures yet. It was getting late. Wanted to find a phone to call home, but couldn’t see one. Went back to pack my stuffs, fixed my blisters and update my blog for the day. As I was updating, I got too hungry and went out to get a hot coffee and had 3 of my raisin bread.

11pm and it was time to get some sleep. The heater was so warm, I could even go in shorts and t-shirt! If only, all my stay during this pilgrimage was this great! Woke up once at 3am because the heater was too warm!!

8th Nov – Day 2, Bangai 7 (Shussekiji)

Alarm rang at 5am. Fight for half an hour before I could wake up. Packed up and when I got out, Meiseji was still there obediently!! I let her had her breakfast first. And then, I tried to train her to walk on the side of the road, I could not get her do that. The only way that worked was to gesture my hand that there was food in it. After that, I tried to check out the henro trail again and finally found the right direction. The vending machine was close by and so I went to get a hot coffee. Then, when I turned and walked to the main road, I was horrified!! Meiseiji was lying still and blood was flowing from her body! I lost of words. I squatted down. I wanted to cry, but tears could not come down. I killed Meiseiji!! I was very devastated. I did not move for a period of time. If only I did not induce her in any way to follow me. If only I did not carry her so far away from her original place! I prayed and left with heavy heart. The thought of Meiseiji lingered throughout the day. The images of her dead body flashed back in front me many times. I had to move on. I prayed that she will reborn as a human and met a better owner than me! Please give Meiseiji a minute of silent after you read this.

I noticed during the walk, I must be very observant. To look out for the henro trail sign, because they could really be anywhere. It was like treasure hunt searching for the symbol. I reached a tricky path which I had to cut through branches trying to avoid many spider webs! Got my shoes and pants all with mud. In the end, I lost my way and came back to the same tricky path, and noticed I could actually avoid that!! Then, I came to the main road, where I should turn left, as the map showed, in order to reach the tunnel. Instead, I went the wrong direction and spent an hour wandering around, asking directions just to come back to the same place! I wasted one hour of time and energy and walked around aimlessly for 4km. I hated myself for being so stupid and careless for not studying at the map more diligently. When I was lost, I saw coin laundry again, but yet I haven’t learned my lesson. In the 1.5km tunnel, I sang Alan Tam’s “爱的逃兵” out very loud!! Not sure why that song. It just pop into mind. There was some loud siren inside the tunnel that I could barely hear myself.

Soon, my frustration of getting lost foolishly was gone after I was back in the right track again. Felt hungry already and bought some bread and milk (bought the wrong cocoa flavor instead of the original!) to munch. Somehow, wherever I walked, I could hear a bell telling you the time! Not long, the bottom of my feet started to feel pain.

Spiders were really aplenty in this country, even at some weird places along the main road. And so, I walked and thought of Yuhei-san “ichi, ni, san, shi” routine! I did the same to motivate myself. Soon, I passed a junction, which showed the henro sign. I thought it was the first one on the map, and further up around 1.1km, I should see the next henro trail. I wanted to take the second one, so that my journey back would be a different route, although the second trail was 1km longer. Not long, I checked my watch and exactly 1.1km later, I saw another junction, but there was no henro sign there. I turned in and hope to ask for some direction. Met a few old men and women, but I could not understand anything from them at all!! So, I decided to walk further to see if I could find the right henro trail exit in front. I walked and walked, but it wasn’t seemed right. Finally, I was lost again! I must admit my navigation skill really sucks and always took a long time to figure the right path. I rested a while to fix my blisters. I went back all the way to the 2nd junction only to found out that the path would lead to a different place on the map!! I did not learn my lesson again about the map. So, I obediently went back to the 1st junction with the henro sign and the same old story repeated. I wasted an hour of time and effort and around 4km of worthless walk yet again!

Very quickly I reached a path with two different options for me. Right was following the road again. Left was going through some jungle trail. As the Chinese saying goes, “Left Safe, Right Dangerous!”, I chose the left. The bushes were so close and I got my raincoat torn and some shits on my jacket and the raincoat. So far, I had been hooking my sweater and jacket at the back of my backpack and used the raincoat to cover them for protection of rain or dirt. Soon the path came back to the road again, but the next sign pointing exactly the direction where I came from! Didn’t think carefully again, I continued to walk along the road, but I was cleverer a bit this round. I did not walk too far and realized something was not right. I went back and realized the sign was actually slightly bended. It made a lot of sense that the henro path should be going up along the trail. I read the guide before and advice was given that one has to use a lot of common sense along the trail! I probably lack of it.

So, the trails would continued pop out to the main road and then follow into the jungle again for a few rounds. The hike was tough and my hips started to hurt a lot by now, not to mention the shoulder. Finally, I came to a stretch of main road again. I almost stepped onto a huge worm! Saw a lot of dead lizards, dead snakes and even dead crabs on the road! Saw a live crab too, not long later. Soon, I was back into the jungle trail and there were 2, 3, 4 and many more crabs around! The hikes got steeper and steeper! Finally I reached a junction with two paths on the left and right, but the henro sign pointed upwards!! Testing my common sense again! I looked up and thought it seemed a walkable trail and regretted! I should had just followed one of the left or right path. Once I crossed over, I was left with two options again. Left or right now!! Somehow, the left path seemed right to me! And so I walked and walked and walked, but could not see another henro trail sign!! I checked my watch and it was already 2:45pm, and I started to worry if I could get out of the jungle before dark! I almost thought of turning back until I saw some light in front and decided to check it out for one last time if there was any sign!! Thanks god, I saw the sign pointing to the direction of the temple! It saved my life. I continued to walk and walk, but still no henro signs. But, luckily, there were signs of the temple direction every now and then. And finally, the last sign mentioned the temple was 400m ahead! I was overjoyed. But, by now, I was already struggling and had to stop after every few steps. Soon, my watch alarmed rang to indicate I was about 800m above sea-level already. It continued to go up and up. Around 3:30pm, I eventually reached the entrance of the temple!! I rested for a while, but I had to take another 102 steps up to the temple hall. The in charge greeted me. There were other pilgrims too. It got very windy and cold. There were 3 halls here and I prayed at each of them and did the normal procedures. I noticed my incense were all broken. So I had to buy some new ones. After getting my stamp and before I could ask for accommodation, the owner was really nice and offered to drive me to Bangai 8 at 5pm when he knocked off work, because it was already late and I couldn’t possibly reached there on time. I said I couldn’t because I was on a walking pilgrimage. And so, he said there was room without meal for 4000yen, but added later that breakfast was included!! I was already more than happy to have a place to sleep!! Shortly, he came back and tried to tell me something but I could not get what he meant. Then, he brought me to a store room and offered the place for free!!!! I couldn’t believe my luck!! It was a perfect place with light and power plugs, as he explained. I kept bowing and thanking him many many times! Then, another old man came and asked if I drink sake!! I said a little and he brought me one whole glass!! And then, he came back again and asked if I drink coffee. I said it was ok, but he insisted and brought me one! I thanked him very much. After I had cleaned up myself, the old man came back again and told me about the laundry and brought me a heater!!! But, I didn’t use the washing machine, since I had many to wash and they might not get dried on time. I bowed and thanked him many many times!! Then, the owner brought me to the noodle shop and told me dinner could only be served at 5pm. I met the middle aged lady boss. Pretty modern and pleasant looking. I was busy with my stuffs and thought I would go over to the restaurant at 5pm, but before that she already brought the udon over!! I could understand her perfectly that I could leave the bowl in the store room and she would come to collect it tomorrow morning. I felt it wasn’t so nice and offered to bring the bowl back once I was done and paid her 500yen with a 5000yen note. It was hot and nice and I finished up until the bowl was like new. Before I could bring the bowl back, she was already outside with my change and also offered some rice cakes and sweets!! I probably had made her waiting for me to finish my dinner when she was actually knocking off. I thanked her very very much!!

Very soon, it got dark! The wind was so strong outside that it banged on to the door from time to time. And it was raining again! Initially I thought of getting some drink and coffee outside, but later, I don’t even felt like brushing my teeth!! Prepared my name slips again. For the first, I seriously planned out my trip tomorrow, although I did it quiet fast! Tomorrow would be sleeping out at the free accommodation suggested by the guide. And the fact that there were onsen and coin laundry nearby just made tomorrow extra exciting! Finally I could take a bath after 3 days without shower by now! Today, I covered about 15.5km, excluding those useless 8km!! Tomorrow would be around 16.2km if I do not get lost again.

My shoulders were dropped dead. I try to sleep at 8 after finishing off this, but kept thinking about Meiseji. The wind was very angry and it was really cold too. I seemed colder inside my sleeping bag. The heater was working before I went to bed. But, after I turned it around, I just couldn’t get it work again. Around 1045pm, the rain seemed to stop. And the wind got softer. Not sure if I slept at all. Woke up again at 3am.

7th Nov – Day 1, Temple 43 (Meisekiji)

And so, I survived my first sleep out, in the rain!! My alarm rung at 6am! It was still raining. I thought perhaps I could not start my pilgrimage today. So, I went back to sleep and by 7am, it died off and only drizzling. I woke up and started to get busy. In the end, I decided to begin my pilgrimage today, or else I would need to sleep out again at the same place! Went to my “locker room” to retrieve my bag. Luckily I did not leave my backpack outside, or else it would be drenched! Get changed, had breakfast and the toughest part was to pack up my tent. It was all wet and I couldn’t dry them much. In the end, I gave up and cleaned as much as I could. Took me 2 and half hours to get ready. The rain didn’t stop all the while. Just when I’ve set my watch and ready to hook on my backpack, the rain started to pour!! What a way to start my pilgrimage!! I moved on, carrying my umbrella with me. My raincoat was too small to cover myself and the backpack. So, I had to give my brother the priority.

It was 9:45am 7th November 2010. The time I started my Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage! Just 5 minutes away, the rain got smaller. I saw an old man sheltering from the rain under the bridge. I turned back and offered my umbrella, but he said he was ok. He just lived very nearby. So, I took the same path that I used from the temple yesterday to the camp ground. The journey up was much tougher and I already started to struggle! By the time I reached the temple, I was all soaked to the skin with sweat!! It was only a 30 minutes walk. I did the temple etiquette but prayed in my own way. Got my stamp and the guy recognized me! Bought a drink, and started off at 11am again! And so, I passed by the same route down from the temple for the 3rd time!

When I reached the main road, I probably missed a turn and went a different way, but it was still towards the same direction. So, I walked and walked. A lot of challenges up in my head. Took me a long while to confirm later that I was in the right track. Got to make decisions quick as well. Passed by a coin laundry and thought if I should do it. I remembered a previous advice (I read the book of this guy who travelled around Japan in 6 months on his bicycle) that I should do it whenever I see it. But, I had just started to walk for less than an hour! I set a rule (I have lots of rules for this pilgrimage!) that I would rest 5 minutes after every one hour walk. But not long after my rest, it was 12:30pm already and I thought it would be good to stop for lunch since I was a restaurant. It was a good move. The noodle was damn nice that I finished up the soup as well. For 550yen, the meat given was a lot and there were many vegetable as well! I asked the shop owner where we were on my henro map, and some of the patrons overheard probably. They all wished me best of luck! =]

Not long later, I passed by the last convenience store before a very long walk followed. So, I bought my bread for breakfast tomorrow. And so, I walked and walked. Stopping once every hour, until I met “Meiseji”. This dog just appeared from no way, and I stopped a while to give with her a pat. Then, I realized she was following me, and for a long way!! I thought I could share some of my favourite raisin bun with her in order to keep her away. But, after the munch, she continued to follow. I tried to ignore her, but she was walking very dangerously across the main road. The cars were all trying to slow down and avoid her. She almost even caused at accident when a car tried to jam brake. So, I had to tempt her with food in order for her to walk on the side of the road. When I reached the tunnel, she was still following. I tried to walk to some houses nearby and asked if someone will take her. Met a couple of old ladies, but they suggested me to walk the other henro path which avoids the traffic! Met another who had dogs herself too, but she didn’t want to take Meiseji. Since I started my walk late today, and still had a long walk to the next accommodation, I need to take the shorter path. I was just worried that she had an owner! In the end, I couldn’t chase her away and had no choice but to carry her all the way through the 1.1km tunnel to the other end. She still followed after that. I thought maybe I really couldn’t get rid of her and tried to give her a name. I called out many names, Shikoku, Hachiju, Hachi, Brownie, and many different Japanese words for the colour “brown”, but she did not answer at all. Finally, when I tried “Meiseji”, she turned back. I called again, she turned again. I called once more, she turned once more. I called the 4th time, and she turned the 4th time! Actually, I wanted to call out the name of the Temple 43, “Meisekiji”, but I called wrongly instead! As I walked, I thought maybe this dog later would turned into Kobo Daishi (the famous Buddhist figure in Japan who got enlightenment at this pilgrimage) and I would tell everyone the story, and no one would believe me, and I went crazy!! Perhaps, the wearisome made my mind wandered off somewhere.

It was already 3:30pm and I saw a temple on the map 2.5km away. I thought maybe I could get an accommodation there instead. When I reached, it was already a deserted place. 4pm. There were still 5.4km away to the next “civilization”! I came to a school. Saw toilet sign. Went to check it out and it was not locked!!! Sleep area checked, water checked. Now left one more item, “food”, before I could sleep out at the school’s toilet! Left my backpack inside first and went to search for the restaurants in the map, which should be nearby. After a few rounds, still couldn’t find the place, and the dog was a nuisance since she kept walking in the middle of the road, like it was her grandfather’s road!! So, I checked out the school and the household around to see if there were any vending machines as last resort. But, still couldn’t find any! Luckily I met a guy who managed to direct me to the restaurants, but I needed to carry Meiseji again!! I was so dirty and full with her hair after that!

Had a nice hot meal and soda drink to quench my thirst! My shoulders and hips were so tired! Half an hour later, I came out and thought I had lost Meiseji, but just as I crossed the road, she appeared again!! Couldn’t find any dog food selling around. Went inside the restaurant again and bought a bag of biscuits for Meiseiji. The lady owner even gave me a bigger-than-usual coin pouch, when she saw mine was just a tiny little zip plastic bag. Then, Meiseiji got distracted by some passerby. I quickly tried to run away again and crossed the road. She noticed and saw me when I turned back. She ran over and I saw a car coming. The car probably didn’t see her. It just missed her by an inch!! I let out a yell!!! I was so guilty of myself. If she really got killed there, I would be to blame. So, I carried her back to the school again.

Came back to my “studio apartment”. There were lights inside as well. It would be perfect if there was power plug as well. Surprisingly not in a toilet! There was a basin area and I set my mat there. Today I covered only about 15.6km. I need to buck up!

Meiseji barked a few times when probably someone was around. I wondered if she had enough for dinner. I wondered if she was cold outside. I wondered if I could really bring her along. Some of the paths needed to walk along the road, and I would need to carry her again!

I was really tired. Need to check-out early at 5am tomorrow before the kids come to school! Slept at 9pm, but was woken up by the rain again. It was still 10:30pm and very cold even indoor. I put on all my sleeping gear again like last night. I found that it was tough not to stretch my leg full. So, I had to sleep diagonally, just long enough for me. I also used the heat packet, although the instruction suggested not to use it while sleeping! I wonder why. Anyway, it worked only on the area where I patched it. Struggled the whole night but still managed to catch some sleep.

6th Nov – Unomachi, Shikoku – Trial Pilgrimage!

Could not sleep well the whole night. Woke up once at 2am and 5am, probably worrying I would overslept. At 5am, I was already eager to wake up. By 6am, it was still an hour and half before my alarm would ring, but decided to wake up since my eyes were already very wide opened.

Had a nice shower and was trying to put my contact lense, but the right one didn't feel comfortable, so I took it off and "oops", it felt on the shower floor. Couldn't locate the needle from the deep sea, I had to give up and used a new one.

Had a heavy breakfast. A milk, banana, 2 bun of raisin bread and a coffee. After a dosage of yogurt and milk as suggested by Nick, my constipation problem was slightly better off this morning. Should had stuffed in more yogurt last night.

Continued to upload more photos on my blog. It was about time to leave and I tried to catch up the time and uploaded 6 more pictures only to find out it failed later!! Perhaps that was the sign to leave already. Said goodbye to my beloved guest house with deep feeling.

Still I managed to catch the 830am bus and was an hour early at the ferry terminal. It wasn't crowded at all. Amazingly, I managed to fill up the Japanese form!! All thanks to my little ability to read some Chinese characters. Only could not confirm the Kanji 才for "age" which I guessed correctly after asking a fellow passenger. Got my 3020yen ticket and waited patiently.

Soon it was time and we boarded like going up the famous Titanic!! There were 3 decks and there wasn't any seat for 2nd class area but actually a large matted floor for passengers to lie down and rest! I looked around the different levels and took pictures. Then, read my lonely planet and rest till 1130 to get some coffee and had my yummy raisin bread!!

On the ferry, I was on my iTune and suddenly I thought. We have earphone already. Why don't we have a mouthphone too!! So that you can sing it out and won't disturb the others. (for your info, all rights are reserved and I'm patenting this creation, sorry!!)

I read and noticed this suna-bashiri (sand run) at Mt Fuji where rocks were like sand and the mountain like big dune!! I missed that on my 1st hike!! I couldn't help but immediately thought of doing it again in July or August!!!

3 hours were quick. After snack, the announcement made that we had arrived at Shikoku. A long walk to the train station. Taking the bus would cost 160yen, the same from Beppu station to the ferry terminal. That was how long the walk was. The next train was still 45minutes to go. I could pay an extra 310yen for the express which come 20min earlier. But why the waste?! That was just exactly enough for me to have an udon soup just next door! =]

It was really true that you can find power sockets almost anywhere outside. I saw one at the wooden staircase that connects the train platforms! I had seen those on the ceiling next to vending machines as well.

Saw a basin with a mirror at the platform. Think it was for those rushing to work, to brush their teeth and comb set hair! Reached Unomachi exactly at 2pm. I had 3 hours to find my accommodation before it started to get dark. Walked and walked but saw nothing close to any kind of place to stay! Called the Temple 43 but there don’t provide accommodation, although the guide said otherwise. So, I thought I probably had to resort to one of the place I called at Ogata which cost 4300yen to check out if meals were provided. Just when I wanted to find a public phone, there were none to be seen. Finally, found one at a department store, and the chances of it not working was the negative of “almost”, but yet I hit it. Walked further and found a working one in the end!! Unfortunately, the place I called had no more rooms available for the day! The guy on the phone was very nice and still hold on to the line, even thought I had a very long pause, thinking what should I do. I almost forgotten I was on the line too. So, I called the 5300yen hotel and they agreed to cut down to 5000yen. However, I had set a rule myself for this pilgrimage that I would avoid paying anything more than 3000yen for a night of accommodation. As a result, my mind already wandered off to the thought of sleeping out. So, I tried to walk to Temple 43 first to check out the stuffs I need to buy and see if I could get any help there. Already had a taste of the actual pilgrimage before it started. But, overall, the walk wasn’t that bad. I managed to free both of my hands by having my waist pouch on my waist and my jacket covering the top of my backpack. I was like Buzz Lightyear, carrying a spaceship-like wings behind me.

Just outside the temple, I managed to get the name slips and the stamp books. I had to get separate books for the actual 88 temples and the 20 unnumbered temples, called “bangai”, in which some may also covered these in their pilgrimage to make the holy number of 108. I got the smaller “bangai” stamp book, although the bigger was nicer with descriptions of each “bangai”. But it was too big to fit into my waist pouch. I spent a long time with the owner on the stamp books. I was trying to get one which included both. He was very patience trying to explain in English using his phone which converts anything that you said in Japanese, and vice versa. After that, I realized there was a city office, which actually help tourist on information. Too bad, I was already at the temple. It was 4pm and the city office closed at 5. The walk to the city office would be half an hour. I decided to try and ask the owner first if there was any cheap accommodation around. The lady boss suggested one which was also in my guide. I called but they were charging 5000yen too. Then, I turned back and thought of checking out the temple. The owner saw me again and suggested to camp near the toilet at the temple. I asked the temple in charge, but he said it was not allowed. After I came out, the shop owner even went upstair with me again to talk to the temple in charge. But, it was still not allowed. However, he suggested a place, at a park, behind the train station. I bowed and thanked both of them very much.

When I reached there, I spotted the perfect location. There was a toilet with water. When I found out that there was even toilet paper, the feeling was like hitting the lottery! One problem was solved. But, I didn’t use it in the end. So it was like hitting the lottery but did not buy! I thought of walking to the nearby vending machine to rest a while and then get my dinner before I set up my tent. Met a couple there who suggested I could get cheap food opposite at the department store. They had been to Malaysia and Singapore before. The husband also walked the pilgrimage previously and he said I could leave my backpack behind a hide-out area to get my dinner. They wished me all the best on my trail and left. I did a daredevil again and left all my “properties” there to go to the department store. It was also getting dark and I was racing against time to get my bread for breakfast, yogurt, milk and my dinner. I was pretty excited actually at the thought of setting up my tent for the first time! I was just hoping the weather will not be too cruel to me.

When I came back, everything was still in tact. Time to set up the tent. I looked around and saw a corner which was less obvious to passerby. But it was next to the swing. I hesitated a moment. I thought those things usually were there. I couldn’t be bothered much. It was 5:30pm already and almost dark. I quickly tried to get my headlight, and what a time to run out of battery. So, I clumsily ransacked out almost all my stuffs from the backpack in order to retrieve the extra batteries. After a tedious and gawky 45minutes, I was so proud to set up my very first tent in my life, thought there many room for improvement!!

Next was meal time. I walked over to the bench at the opposite of the road, where there was street light. So there I was. Sitting on the side of the road, seeing cars passing by, having my dinner, no, 370yen of cold rice, a skewer of cold chicken and cold fish. Yet, everything was still very tasty!! It was amazing how cold weather could do to your appetite!! The people in the cars could be thinking I must be crazy! Yes!! This was all about it!! Being crazy!! And I think I made it today!! Tonight was definitely one of the craziest things I’d done in my life!!

After my splendid dinner, I went to my “study room”. The bench next to the vending machine, with a power plug, to write all my thoughts before I forget! And also to charge my phone. Then, I read up on the proper etiquette at the temple and prepared my name slips (osame-fuda) to be placed at the Main and Daishi Halls at the temples. The moment I couldn’t get a cheap accommodation, I thought it would only be wise to bring forward my pilgrimage and start tomorrow!!! Yes, tomorrow was it!!

It got colder already and bought a hot oo-loong tea from the machine to heat up myself a bit. The next task was tough! Cleaning up using cold water!! I thought for a long while and decide it would be better to clean up. Saw a guy in the toilet, who was probably surprised to see someone washing up in a public toilet. He told me one whole lot of things but I could only picked up “park” and “the light will go off”! He probably suggested some other better places. And yes, at 10pm, the toilet light went off!! Luckily I was already packing up.

My backpack was too bulky to sleep with me inside the tent. Leaving it outside was too obvious and wasn’t any better than the place I left it previously. So, I took out my laptop and camera with me and left my backpack there again with a note. “Watashi wa henro desu. Ben desu. Shingaporu kara. ‘Please do not steal’. Domo arigatou gozaimasu!” (I’m a pilgrim. My name is Ben and I’m from Singapore. Please do not steal. Thank you very much”).

I went inside my tent. It was pretty cosy. The weather had been very kind to me so far. It wasn’t cold at all and I didn’t even need to use my sleeping bag yet. I was well prepared and took out my gloves, scarf, pom pom hat and the heat packets for standby. Not too long, I dozed off, but was woken up by the rain at 1:30am! It was pretty heavy and I was worried the tent would collapsed! And it started to get very cold. I put on my hat, wore another sweater, tuck in my gloves and slipped myself into the sleeping bag. The sound of the rain drops made it tough to get back into sleep, but eventually I did after many turns.