13th Dec – Day 37, Toyo Town (Meitokuji)

I couldn't remember how many times did I wake up! 11:30pm, 1am, 2am, 3am! And I was trying to have a few sips of shochu on a couple of occasions, but it didn’t seem to work! Instead, I was probably drunk in my dream! Couldn’t wait for 4am to get ready. Finally I heard rain drop! I sprung up and got busy immediate before my tent got wet. By 5:30am I was ready but unfortunately the rain got heavier. My shoes were already getting wet during my short 10minutes walk to the vending machine!

And so I waited patiently for the rain to get smaller if not stopped completely. But the chances looked like a dream. I was left with only one choice, that is, to change to my Nikko for the next three hours or at least one hour when surface was drier.

It was around 7:10am when we left the place. After spending 3 nights with Guillaume, we bid each other best of luck and went the separate way. I started talking to my toes and shoulders! Hoping they would be cooperative for the next 3 hours until I reach the Michi-no-eki rest hut for the break. Passed by the sea side and the sound of the waves were very soothing. Two hours later, my toes could not bear the pain anymore, and since the rain seemed to die down, I stopped at a hotel entrance and let my Chief Commander-in-charge took over again! I was very clumsy and dropped the sensor that was loosely hooked on the wall a couple of times. The owner came out thinking who was trying to tear down her hotel! We chatted for a while, but as usual, I was just listening and pretended I could understand. She later gave me a biscuit, a couple of sweets and a pen that she got it from the airline while flying to Korea! I tried to give her a name slip, but she insisted not to have it! Probably, she was a Christian or a non-believer.

Just when I thought the rain had stopped, it got heavier instead! My right foot was damp half an hour later. Luckily, I reached the convenient store 15 minutes later. Went in to get my breakfast tomorrow and some snack, and walked over to the Michi-no-eki just slightly further up to have my tea break. It was about 10am, and I already planned to stick around for the rain to go away, since I had an hour or so to spare. And, to my great delight, there was an internet access!! Since I had not been uploading my blog for almost a week, I couldn’t help but took out my laptop. Very soon, it was 11:30am already and I had to get going.

I thought I saw the rain had stopped, but when I came out, it was still very heavy! I had no other option but to switch back to my Nikko. By now, it was already 12pm. As I walked further, the rain poured heavier!! Suddenly, I remembered the guide that mentioned a lodging nearby was free for walking henro! My shoulders were strained. My toes were in pain. My jacket was wet. Every part of my body was not comfortable! I had a lot of excuses. My Angel and Devil were fighting again! I moved on, but soon I saw a phone! I made the call and the place was available! The devil seemed to have triumphed. I lost to the rain and walked to the accommodation with a sly feeling. When I reached, there was no one around. I searched around the place but still couldn’t find anyone. Then, I saw someone in a cabin and thought he was probably one of the o-henro-san. He helped me to make a call to the owner, but out of a sudden, there was a 3000yen charges instead! Even though, it was within my budget, I decided to move on, since I could still make it to my intended free lodging. Probably, I did not mention I called earlier. Perhaps, the final occupancy for “walking henro” was reserved for “me” (the one who called), and hence “I” (the one who barged in) was turned down.

It seemed like Tokushima-ken didn’t want me to stay, and so, as I walked further south, I crossed over to Kochi-ken, the last prefecture at Shikoku that I would be covering before going back to Ehime-ken! There was a Buddhist dojo (place of spiritual training) name given to each prefecture, in fact. The reason why most people commence their pilgrimage at Temple 1 was because Tokushima-ken is known as the Hosshin dojo (Place of Spiritual Awakening). Once awaken, one would receive “Ascetic Training” along Kochi-ken or Shugyo dojo (Place of Ascetic Training). Then, one would attain enlightenment at Ehime-ken, the Place of Enlightenment (Bodai dojo), and finally reached the “Place of Nirvana” at Nehan dojo (Kagawa-ken)!

I moved on, the rain poured on. Just when I’d praised yesterday, how great the weather had been, it gave me a real test today, and I almost failed miserably. My speed wasn’t the usual one due to the shoe. Half an hour was gone, and I needed a rest. Saw an overhead bridge, and sat under it. Met a fellow o-henro-san and offered him some biscuits. Had a couple for myself too. Sipped some water and got my feet on quickly.

There seemed to be a lot of old henro paths along this Route 55. I heard there were even some that walk along the beach! Perhaps, those were one of these old paths. And I saw two surfers at the sea in this kind of weather! Actually, there were many crazy people in this world, and I was just trying to be one as well!

The rain got too heavy to continue walking, and I needed a shelter badly! Very fortunately, I reached one not too long later, before I was drenched. There was instant noodle vending machine too! What a time to have a hot meal for lunch! Checked the map and glad I was only about half an hour more to my destination, and it was still 2:15pm. The shelter even had some slot machines!!

Passed by a tunnel and my toe was so painful that I let out a yell, and the echo entertained me for a short while! Finally, I arrived at my intended free lodging at a temple, but once again, there was no one around! I sat down with my shoes off to rest my toes. Around half an hour or so, the stern-looking owner came back and I was electrified to know I didn’t have to walk further. The lodging was very cozy. There weren’t any futons or blankets but there was an electric carpet!!!! I didn’t get to ask further and the owner was already out of sight.

I went to check out the grocery store in the map but couldn’t find it. It turned out to be much further than I thought. I came back and managed to catch the owner to ask for the direction. He offered his flat-tyred bicycle and told me to go immediately, when I tried to ask for the closing hours. I rushed to the place in his bike and glad to get my dinner and milk for tomorrow! I saw a restaurant just in front of the temple, but unfortunately, the owner apologized that it was closed for the day. So, I had to be contented with grocery food. After my meal, I cleaned up and updated my blog. Planned my journey for tomorrow and slept around 9pm.

Today, the Angel prevailed because I did not stay put in the Michi-no-eki and was another 19.7km closer to end my pilgrimage!