14th Nov – Day 8, Temple 48 (Sairinji), Temple 49 (Joudoji), Temple 50 (Hantaji), Temple 51 (Ishiteji)

Set my alarm at 6, but could only woke up at 6:22am. Hajime-san was awoken 10min later. We had breakfast in the room together. Then, he went to the temple while I continued my packing.

We started off around 7:45am. Hajime-san had a Yakidori shop at Tokyo. He closed it to get the money for this pilgrimage! He wanted to study a course in food industry and then set up a new shop again. Hence, he was doing this walk to pray for the success. 4.6km seemed pretty near and soon we reached Temple 48. We met a couple who gave us 1000yen as o-settai. I just humbly showed him the "no" hand gesture as instinct. But, Hajime-san said you must accept when someone offered you an o-settai. It’s a rule and it would not be nice to reject!!! Actually I had read about this in the guide and book from previous henro, but it was just the instinct of Chinese’s spirit (华人精神). And so, I accepted and gave my name slip. The husband tried to lift my backpack but couldn’t move it at all!! I thought of a mission I must do back in Temple 43.

Another 3.1km, we were at Temple 49 and met two Americans there. Hajime-san reminded me that I must keep my valuables with me at all time! Luckily the temples today were all pretty close by. I asked Hajime-san if I would slow him down. He said no. He walked 40km yesterday! He needed a “rest” today. At Temple 50, he met his friends from his hometown, where were driving their kids to the zoo around the area, and pop by to see him. Since they had to catch up, I left Hajime-san and planned to meet again at Dogo Onsen, near Temple 51, later.

Suddenly, I felt so lonely waking alone. I found out another henro sign from Hajime-san. Soon, I reached Temple 51. It was huge. So different from the others that I didn’t know how to start with! There was an area with a small pillow and the name of each 88 temples. Some would go around and touched at each of the pillow to signify that one had been there and complete the pilgrimage. There was also a big bowl, with lots of incense burning with smoke. People would go near it to let the smoke ran through them. Some may use their hands to spread the smoke to themselves. Took a lots of pictures, and had an expensive lunch for 550yen, but little meat. Luckily, I had the sausage from the walking-stick henro. As I was about to leave the temple, I met Hajime-san. He was quick. I told him I would wait at the Onsen since he would need some time at the temple.

When I reached the Dogo Onsen, there was no lodging as the guide mentioned. So, I thought of waiting for Hajime-san at a nearby hotel which happened to have a wifi as well. After some 30 minutes or so, there was no sign of him yet. So, I wondered where to go. I asked where was the nearest public phone to call any cheap lodging around or perhaps the Temple 52 to see if they have free lodging. I was thinking if I should continue my walk to Temple 52, but Rule 1 (Don’t rush yourself) helped me to stay put. So, the next thing was to find a place to stay! Couldn’t find any public phones around and since the accommodation were nearby, I decided to go the places instead.

I went to the Youth Hostel first. Saw people playing tennis along the way and my hands felt itchy. Reached the hostel but it was 2500yen without wifi. So I thought Fujiya was better with wifi at 2000yen. Decided to check in there. I was inside the building and went to the lobby. All lady staffs were in kimono! I thought what a wonderful dormitory this place was, until I realized I was actually at Funaya instead!! The “Fu” and the “Ya” were same and I did not take note of the middle character clearly. Anyway, found Fujiya after some effort and guidance on direction. Unfortunately, no one was there. The owner was actually living somewhere else nearby. So, I had to find a phone to call, and met the same old lady who directed me earlier to Fujiya. I told her my situation and she suggested another place for 2000yen as well. The name was ecodogo she said. At this moment I met up with Hajime-san. It was 4:30pm already!

We went to check out a place he found for 2000yen as well. It was not bad but we wanted to see ecodogo as well which was also very close to the Dogo Onsen. It was even better with very cheap laundry. The detergent was even free but I used mine instead. I was very impressed that there was even power plug in the locker itself!! So, after 8 days of sleeping out, this was my first paid accommodation. We checked in and headed to the Onsen immediately. This Dogo Onsen is a very famous place with 3000 years of history. The oldest onsen in Japan and a tourist spot too! I was wearing the Japanese clogs for the first time. When we were there, we had to queue to get the tickets! The cheapest rate was 400yen and you were allowed to stay for an hour only. Good business. Perhaps, it was a Sunday too. It was so packed inside!! People coming in and going out. The onsen was nothing special. Only a single pool.

After that, we walked around to check out the restaurants for dinner. Then, we saw a sign outside that says “One gulp of beer taken just after a bath is the time when you feel most refreshed” We could not resist and went in. I had a chicken set for 740yen and 2 glasses of solid draft beer (one dark and one stout). They were all wonderful!! After more than 3 weeks, I had my first taste of alcohol!! Then, Hajime-san introduced me to Yumi-san whom was also a walking pilgrim. She just reached and joined us in the restaurant for a beer and short chat. Yumi-san became our translator! She was good in English. At night, we were all in our room having shochu, a 40% alcohol drink! It burned your throat!! Yumi-san suggested to heat it up and it still burned your throat! They were both great drinker!! Hajime-san also treated me a kind of beer called “Chu-hi” earlier. It’s like beer but with lemon taste and it was very refreshing!!!

Yumi-san had actually been travelling for 3 years. She was at Jordan and just back to Japan to do the pilgrimage. They both offered me a lot of advice and tips. Hajime-san even mentioned a temple with ghost and warned me to avoid that!! He showed me a lot of free lodging at different temples. Yumi-san bought the local famous Jakoten (something like a fish cake) and I was just thinking where to try this. It was delicious! She then noticed my tattoo on my feet and complimented it. She said usually onsen does not allow tattoo. Japanese always associate tattoo to Yakuza. She told me not to be worried if someone was giving me weird looks or felt uncomfortable with me in the onsen. But, she added that I probably be ok since the design does not resemble those Yakuza’s. At 11:30pm, we were all knocked out. It was a great and fun night.

Today, I merely walked for 11.8km.