8th Nov – Day 2, Bangai 7 (Shussekiji)

Alarm rang at 5am. Fight for half an hour before I could wake up. Packed up and when I got out, Meiseji was still there obediently!! I let her had her breakfast first. And then, I tried to train her to walk on the side of the road, I could not get her do that. The only way that worked was to gesture my hand that there was food in it. After that, I tried to check out the henro trail again and finally found the right direction. The vending machine was close by and so I went to get a hot coffee. Then, when I turned and walked to the main road, I was horrified!! Meiseiji was lying still and blood was flowing from her body! I lost of words. I squatted down. I wanted to cry, but tears could not come down. I killed Meiseiji!! I was very devastated. I did not move for a period of time. If only I did not induce her in any way to follow me. If only I did not carry her so far away from her original place! I prayed and left with heavy heart. The thought of Meiseiji lingered throughout the day. The images of her dead body flashed back in front me many times. I had to move on. I prayed that she will reborn as a human and met a better owner than me! Please give Meiseiji a minute of silent after you read this.

I noticed during the walk, I must be very observant. To look out for the henro trail sign, because they could really be anywhere. It was like treasure hunt searching for the symbol. I reached a tricky path which I had to cut through branches trying to avoid many spider webs! Got my shoes and pants all with mud. In the end, I lost my way and came back to the same tricky path, and noticed I could actually avoid that!! Then, I came to the main road, where I should turn left, as the map showed, in order to reach the tunnel. Instead, I went the wrong direction and spent an hour wandering around, asking directions just to come back to the same place! I wasted one hour of time and energy and walked around aimlessly for 4km. I hated myself for being so stupid and careless for not studying at the map more diligently. When I was lost, I saw coin laundry again, but yet I haven’t learned my lesson. In the 1.5km tunnel, I sang Alan Tam’s “爱的逃兵” out very loud!! Not sure why that song. It just pop into mind. There was some loud siren inside the tunnel that I could barely hear myself.

Soon, my frustration of getting lost foolishly was gone after I was back in the right track again. Felt hungry already and bought some bread and milk (bought the wrong cocoa flavor instead of the original!) to munch. Somehow, wherever I walked, I could hear a bell telling you the time! Not long, the bottom of my feet started to feel pain.

Spiders were really aplenty in this country, even at some weird places along the main road. And so, I walked and thought of Yuhei-san “ichi, ni, san, shi” routine! I did the same to motivate myself. Soon, I passed a junction, which showed the henro sign. I thought it was the first one on the map, and further up around 1.1km, I should see the next henro trail. I wanted to take the second one, so that my journey back would be a different route, although the second trail was 1km longer. Not long, I checked my watch and exactly 1.1km later, I saw another junction, but there was no henro sign there. I turned in and hope to ask for some direction. Met a few old men and women, but I could not understand anything from them at all!! So, I decided to walk further to see if I could find the right henro trail exit in front. I walked and walked, but it wasn’t seemed right. Finally, I was lost again! I must admit my navigation skill really sucks and always took a long time to figure the right path. I rested a while to fix my blisters. I went back all the way to the 2nd junction only to found out that the path would lead to a different place on the map!! I did not learn my lesson again about the map. So, I obediently went back to the 1st junction with the henro sign and the same old story repeated. I wasted an hour of time and effort and around 4km of worthless walk yet again!

Very quickly I reached a path with two different options for me. Right was following the road again. Left was going through some jungle trail. As the Chinese saying goes, “Left Safe, Right Dangerous!”, I chose the left. The bushes were so close and I got my raincoat torn and some shits on my jacket and the raincoat. So far, I had been hooking my sweater and jacket at the back of my backpack and used the raincoat to cover them for protection of rain or dirt. Soon the path came back to the road again, but the next sign pointing exactly the direction where I came from! Didn’t think carefully again, I continued to walk along the road, but I was cleverer a bit this round. I did not walk too far and realized something was not right. I went back and realized the sign was actually slightly bended. It made a lot of sense that the henro path should be going up along the trail. I read the guide before and advice was given that one has to use a lot of common sense along the trail! I probably lack of it.

So, the trails would continued pop out to the main road and then follow into the jungle again for a few rounds. The hike was tough and my hips started to hurt a lot by now, not to mention the shoulder. Finally, I came to a stretch of main road again. I almost stepped onto a huge worm! Saw a lot of dead lizards, dead snakes and even dead crabs on the road! Saw a live crab too, not long later. Soon, I was back into the jungle trail and there were 2, 3, 4 and many more crabs around! The hikes got steeper and steeper! Finally I reached a junction with two paths on the left and right, but the henro sign pointed upwards!! Testing my common sense again! I looked up and thought it seemed a walkable trail and regretted! I should had just followed one of the left or right path. Once I crossed over, I was left with two options again. Left or right now!! Somehow, the left path seemed right to me! And so I walked and walked and walked, but could not see another henro trail sign!! I checked my watch and it was already 2:45pm, and I started to worry if I could get out of the jungle before dark! I almost thought of turning back until I saw some light in front and decided to check it out for one last time if there was any sign!! Thanks god, I saw the sign pointing to the direction of the temple! It saved my life. I continued to walk and walk, but still no henro signs. But, luckily, there were signs of the temple direction every now and then. And finally, the last sign mentioned the temple was 400m ahead! I was overjoyed. But, by now, I was already struggling and had to stop after every few steps. Soon, my watch alarmed rang to indicate I was about 800m above sea-level already. It continued to go up and up. Around 3:30pm, I eventually reached the entrance of the temple!! I rested for a while, but I had to take another 102 steps up to the temple hall. The in charge greeted me. There were other pilgrims too. It got very windy and cold. There were 3 halls here and I prayed at each of them and did the normal procedures. I noticed my incense were all broken. So I had to buy some new ones. After getting my stamp and before I could ask for accommodation, the owner was really nice and offered to drive me to Bangai 8 at 5pm when he knocked off work, because it was already late and I couldn’t possibly reached there on time. I said I couldn’t because I was on a walking pilgrimage. And so, he said there was room without meal for 4000yen, but added later that breakfast was included!! I was already more than happy to have a place to sleep!! Shortly, he came back and tried to tell me something but I could not get what he meant. Then, he brought me to a store room and offered the place for free!!!! I couldn’t believe my luck!! It was a perfect place with light and power plugs, as he explained. I kept bowing and thanking him many many times! Then, another old man came and asked if I drink sake!! I said a little and he brought me one whole glass!! And then, he came back again and asked if I drink coffee. I said it was ok, but he insisted and brought me one! I thanked him very much. After I had cleaned up myself, the old man came back again and told me about the laundry and brought me a heater!!! But, I didn’t use the washing machine, since I had many to wash and they might not get dried on time. I bowed and thanked him many many times!! Then, the owner brought me to the noodle shop and told me dinner could only be served at 5pm. I met the middle aged lady boss. Pretty modern and pleasant looking. I was busy with my stuffs and thought I would go over to the restaurant at 5pm, but before that she already brought the udon over!! I could understand her perfectly that I could leave the bowl in the store room and she would come to collect it tomorrow morning. I felt it wasn’t so nice and offered to bring the bowl back once I was done and paid her 500yen with a 5000yen note. It was hot and nice and I finished up until the bowl was like new. Before I could bring the bowl back, she was already outside with my change and also offered some rice cakes and sweets!! I probably had made her waiting for me to finish my dinner when she was actually knocking off. I thanked her very very much!!

Very soon, it got dark! The wind was so strong outside that it banged on to the door from time to time. And it was raining again! Initially I thought of getting some drink and coffee outside, but later, I don’t even felt like brushing my teeth!! Prepared my name slips again. For the first, I seriously planned out my trip tomorrow, although I did it quiet fast! Tomorrow would be sleeping out at the free accommodation suggested by the guide. And the fact that there were onsen and coin laundry nearby just made tomorrow extra exciting! Finally I could take a bath after 3 days without shower by now! Today, I covered about 15.5km, excluding those useless 8km!! Tomorrow would be around 16.2km if I do not get lost again.

My shoulders were dropped dead. I try to sleep at 8 after finishing off this, but kept thinking about Meiseji. The wind was very angry and it was really cold too. I seemed colder inside my sleeping bag. The heater was working before I went to bed. But, after I turned it around, I just couldn’t get it work again. Around 1045pm, the rain seemed to stop. And the wind got softer. Not sure if I slept at all. Woke up again at 3am.