9th Nov – Day 3, Bangai 8 (Toyogahashi)

When I woke up at 5:30am, my legs were so heavy, I wondered if I could walk! Last night, I unpacked my tent to dry them up. It seemed all ok this morning. I could camp again! After my chore, I had my rice cakes for breakfast and suddenly felt the mood for被遗忘的时光 by Cai Yun, and had it on my iPhone. Amazingly, the heater worked again this morning!! I wanted to bid those great guys farewell, but they were not around. It was a very windy and cool day. The strong wind made my face stiffen. I had my sweater and jacket on the whole morning, and only took out the sweater later in the afternoon, but still had my jacket on, because it was very chilly when the wind blew.

I started around 7:20am. Very soon, I saw a trail sign that pointed me to a different direction. Not wanting to get lost so soon in the morning, I took the same way down from where I came yesterday. I walked pretty fast along the way, just following the signs. But, I never came back to the two-way T-junction that almost got me lost yesterday. I switched on my iTune for the first time, but decided the sounds of the wind and the birds were nicer then. After 3km, I finally reached the main road with 3 ways. One sign shows “Bangai 7”, the other going downwards to a town I was not familiar and the 3rd one was to Ozu and Takayama. Exactly the place I was supposed to head to. But after 800m, I don’t see any henro sign and sadly thought of returning. I took a short rest and changed my mind to move on. I was lucky. Just a few steps ahead, I met the restaurant owner on her way driving to work and after she left I found the henro trail!! But there were 3 separate routes again. I followed the one with a henro sign, and met the first person walking on the same trail with me!! He was a mid-aged Japanese in full henro suit, but without any backpack. He said he started from the Iyo-Hirano train station. So, I thought I wasn’t on the track that I wanted to follow. Nevertheless, I had not been through the one I was walking too. When I reached the main road, there were yet again 3 paths to choose. I remembered the o-henro-san mentioned he came from the left side, and so I took the left. After a long decent, I reached the main road again, which I thought was the one that would lead me to the Iyo-Hirano train station. I was happy thinking I was in good hands following the road, and started to sing an Eason’s song and then blew the pipe I bought from Tian Zi Fang, Shanghai, although I don’t know how to! Suddenly, I came to a dead-end!! It was not like this when I was here yesterday! Luckily there were local for me to ask direction. I tried to get the attention of the locals down at the field. When I’ve taken off my backpack, I walked like a floating man. Soon, I realized I was nearer to Nishi Ozu station already, which was even better! It was half way between the Iyo-Hirano station and the destination I wanted to go earlier. In a way, I got it half right to the track I wanted to follow. So another 800m I reached the station. Fortunately, I asked for direction often. I almost wanted to go the wrong way again. From there, I saw the map and could join back to the henro path to Ozu town centre. It was another long walk. Got very tired already. At last, I reached the town and looking for a place to had my lunch. None of them displayed any price list. In the end, I found one with a nice exterior. Thought it might be expensive. But there was one set lunch with udon and rice! Too hungry and tired to look for other places and paid 800yen for that. I could hardly move my legs after 15km walking in 4hrs and 41min, stopping for my usual 5min break.

The Bangai 8 was just another 2km away. I continued along the road, and found it easily. I thought it was under the bridge. Prayed and got my stamp. Then, I asked the temple staff if there was a free accommodation here. He didn’t seem very friendly and told me something about the toilet in front. I didn’t want to ask further and went to the toilet and found out the place just next to it! This was so far the best accommodation that I had! You just go in, use it, and leave it just as how it was looked like when you went in. It came with futons (bed) and duvets (blankets) as well! There was also a powerful working heater! I quickly left my backpack behind and couldn’t wait for my bath at the nearby onsen. Accordingly to the staff there, it was not an onsen but an “ofuro” (bath place). Perhaps, they don’t consider it an onsen if it was man-made. Paid 350yen and rushed in. Shower gels were all provided except towel. And so for about 20mintes, I had the longest bath of my life, washing almost every surface of my body! After that, it was heaven soaking in the onsen, no, I meant hot bath. There even had one outdoor! I took my time, cleaning my ears and had my hair blown. And then dry cleaned up my jacket too. There was a weight machine, and was stunned to find out I’ve lost 5kg in 3 days!! Or may 13days, if the farming days were included! And I thought I ate a lot!! Guiltily bought milk from a vending machine for 100yen outside the bath house! It was delicious!

After that was laundry time. I had quite a lot to wash. Dumped everything into one of the machine, but soon realized, I was paying to dry it! The machine actually could wash as well as dry for 700yen. I wasted 100yen drying my dirty clothes. Then, I used the cheapest washing machine there of 8kg load. 400yen per wash, but it needed detergent. So, I had to get some portable one from a supermarket nearby for 105yen. The wash would not complete until 35minutes later. I went to shop around the supermarket walking each and every shelf on display! Shopping was fun. Eventually, I bought a 105yen yogurt (half price), 150yen for 3 apples (rejected stuff), 200yen bread (7 of them) and a 138yen milk! On my way out of the supermarket, I saw the staff at the bakery throwing away some of the bread!! What a waste, I thought. If only I could get those from them earlier! My laundry was done, but the only 12minutes dryer for 100yen was occupied. So, I had to use the 10minutes dryer for 100yen. When the time was up, some of them were still damped! Had to slot in another 100yen! As a result, I spent 805yen and 55mins, instead of the 700yen wash for 50mins!

When back to my lodging to keep my stuff and then look for dinner. Wanted to eat pizza at first, but McDonald appeared a better choice in terms of cheaper cash and the larger serving. Then, I was also trying to check out if there was free wifi. And I really did found one!! So, I looked out the surrounding for seats and found a restaurant. Not too expensive and immediately went it! In fact, the rice I ordered was very nice. Some kind of ginger rice for 680yen. But the wifi access was weak. I could only upload 2 days of event but no pictures yet. It was getting late. Wanted to find a phone to call home, but couldn’t see one. Went back to pack my stuffs, fixed my blisters and update my blog for the day. As I was updating, I got too hungry and went out to get a hot coffee and had 3 of my raisin bread.

11pm and it was time to get some sleep. The heater was so warm, I could even go in shorts and t-shirt! If only, all my stay during this pilgrimage was this great! Woke up once at 3am because the heater was too warm!!