21st Nov – Day 15, Bangai 14 (Tsubakidou), Bangai 15 (Hashikuraji)

I managed to survive the night on the tiny bench without falling! Woke up early and set off around 6 plus! I passed by a henro rest hut. Something like the one I passed by on Day 7 (13th Nov) when I had my first rice cake (mochi) “o-settai”. Too bad there was no one around such early for me to get a treat again.

Bangai 14 was just nearby. I was surprised to receive an “o-settai” for the Temple stamp! The staff asked if I was walking the trail all the way, and gave me 2 more crackers! I thanked him a lot and left. For the next few hours, it was just following the Route 192 for 15km! Hence, my mind was able to wander off and just solely concentrating on walking! Today, I effectively left Ehime Prefecture (for the time being, since Temple 40 to 43 are in Ehime Prefecture) and crossed over to Tokushima Prefecture (for the time being, since Temple 67 to 88 are in Kagawa Prefecture)

After I went through a tunnel, I saw a sign indicating 6 degree at the moment. It was a chilly and misty morning. At around 10:30am, I passed by a Udon restaurant and couldn’t resist after checking out the display menu. After that, I met two white cyclists, who greeted me in Japanese! Before that, many of the Japanese thought I was one of them too. Some of them commented that I looked like one.

After 4 days without shower, I started to yearn for a hot bath today. So, I called up two places to consider and both of them met my rule of 3000yen and below!! The Youth Hostel was 3km off the way though they had internet access. I thought I should be sleeping out more often while it was still not winter yet, but the smell on my body pointed me to go for the other called Tabibito-yado instead.

On the way, I saw a bus stop with even blankets and bed sheets! Probably for henro, but it was locked. Saw Mac Donald paper bag and craved for some hot fries suddenly! It started to get sunny at 11 plus and so I took of my jacket. Met a dog that looks like Meiseiji! Felt very sleepy and tired already.

Just before I reached the temple entrance, I saw cable cars on ropeway high above! There was even a round trip service for henro at 1500yen! I was worrying for the worst! At the entrance, I saw the 1.8km sign. No doubt, it was tough. On the way up, I got a cracker and 2 sweets as “o-settai”. I gave the guy a name slip. He seemed very excited that I was an Asian foreigner! After around 45minutes hiked up, I thought I was there when I reached the car park. But, there was more. There was a huge gate that followed, and I felt like playing video games and reached the final stage to fight the boss! The big boss was steps, many many steps! As least a few hundreds! I heard many people were trying to count. On my way down, I tried to as well, but after a few “Konnichiwa”, I lost count and gave up. The Bangai was huge! Perhaps, the biggest among them! After praying, I called up the lodging to confirm and told the owner I would only be able to reach around 6pm. It was 3:30pm then. On the way down, I met a guy and 3 women who gave me many many sweets. I didn’t have any name slips left for the day. While they were walking, I managed to write 4 of them very quickly and rushed over to pass them the slips. They thanked me instead!

I hurried to the convenient store to get my dinner and breakfast, and then dashed my way to the lodging! It was 8km away and I almost flied there. Was really glad that my shoulders and legs were very cooperative! It was the second time I walked in the dark. I managed to reach around 6:20pm after searching 20minutes for the place. I asked one of the shop owner, who didn’t even know there was such a lodging in front of her shop just 30 seconds walk away! I was almost about to turn back when I hit the junction, which was not mentioned in the map. Luckily, I moved on slightly further up! While I was on my way, I had been dreaming if there would be a hot dinner waiting for me, because I told the owner I was a henro! In fact, it really came true!! But, of course, it was not especially for me. There were two other Japanese henro as well there and one of them was Hajime-san!!! We laughed when I met him at the door! They had started and I quickly joined them. The dinner was great! The other henro was 64-years-old Kamada-san, whom I thought was one of the owners too, during the meal! The owner offered some of the Asahi beer and it tasted exceptionally great then!

After a superb dinner, I went for my long hot shower I had been hungered for. Not long later, the owner brought in a big bottle of sake for all of us! Then, he brought in some really nice cold pork slice in soy sauce and chili powder! We chatted and laughed. Kamada-san became my translator this round. 30 years ago, he worked in Germany for many years and spoke English often then. Kamada-san said I was rare! Probably because I was doing this pilgrimage. I asked if it was “crazy” instead =] The owner kept clashing his glass with mine to invite me to drink faster! After we finished the 1.8litre, the owner brought in again another bottle of higher quality sake! But, luckily it was only a few glasses left. We drank until 10 plus, and slept at 11pm.

Today, I achieved another 30plus km at 33.1km! Whenever Bangai was involved, the trip would be longer!