17th Nov – Day 11, Temple 56 (Taisanji), Temple 57 (Eifukiji), Temple 58 (Senyuoji), Temple 59 (Kokubunji), Bangai 10 (Kouryuoji)

I thought perhaps sleeping out was better, because it was so difficult to wake up from a nice bed! Set off early today at 6:38am. Right at the junction, I met the same Japanese walking henro, who said yesterday was a lucky day because of the Daishi Hall relocation. He introduced himself as Mitsuda-san. He was also 60 years old! I remembered the old lady I met previously who did the pilgrimage because it was a critical year for Japanese. I acted clever and asked if he did it because of “yakudoshi”. He gave me the expression that he didn’t care about yakudoshi (critical year) at all. He was doing it to pray for his parents who had passed away. His mother just passed away in July. I apologised and did not ask further. Then it was his turn to ask. I hesitated, but I confidently told him that I had divorced and was praying for my ex-wife for happiness. I also prayed for my family to be in great health always, but I did not mention that to cut in short. I guessed I was ready and wasn’t embarrassed to tell anyone I was divorced anymore.

Temple 56 and Temple 57 were nearby and were completed within an hour plus. Out of a sudden, Mistuda-san asked if I was lonely! I didn’t think he was gay, and he meant “Won’t I be lonely living by myself?” I actually wanted to tell him that I would of course like to look for another love, but I couldn’t put that in Japanese and just replied “oh, ie, ie.” (oh, no, no).

Temple 57 was packed when we reached and there were a tour with priests praying for a group of henros. And so, Mitsuda-san and I started to walk together until Temple 58 when I could not catch up on the slope. He warned me earlier that Temple 58 was 300m above sea-level with 200 steps! On the way, we met a farmer and they were talking about Takeuma-san, the 74-years old man who walked the pilgrimage on bamboo sticks! He was on TV last night. Glad to find out his name! If only I could meet him again to pass him my name slip for his “o-settai”! After some struggle, I was at Temple 58. Mitsuda-san was about to leave already. The free lodging there looked really nice, with free onsen as well. Too bad my schedule couldn’t fit in to stay here.

By 10am, it was very sunny and a hot day! On the way to Temple 59, I saw two camps and took a picture. Then, the guy called out. They were the 2 Americans, Hajime-san and I met at Temple 49! Chat with one of them (the other was inside the tent) for a while and bid them good luck! They motivated me to sleep out again!

From Temple 59 to Bangai 10, it was a very very long walk. After an hour, stopped by a rest hut to have my quick lunch. Continued for hours, until I finally reached the sign that mentioned “800m ahead”. So happy and thought I was on time. But the 800m seemed like 8000m!! The slope was slowing me down a lot! My shoulders were crying for help. Eventually, I saw the temple sign, but the temple was still no way to be seen! It was a big car that followed. Went further ahead, and yet another car park area!! Then, I saw a lady packing up to close her stall to ask for direction. She said “Just go further up for another 10minutes or so.”!! I wanted to cry. And I had not even tasted those well-known more difficult paths from Temple 11 to 12 and Temple 21 to 22 yet!! So, I just walked further up slope and then reached a junction. Great, no sign! I took the left upslope path and reached a place that looked like a residential house! Great, I turned back and took the right just to reach the dead-end! Great, just when I was so damn tired and rushing for time, such things happened. Went back to the left turn again and tried to seek help from someone there, but no answer. I went in and soon came to the Bangai from the back door! I was supposed to take the left path at the car park with steps instead. The temple was famous for the fall season trees around. Saw many couples there just to take pictures. By the time I was done, it was already 4:30pm and became cold all of the sudden.

I quickly rushed to Bangai 11 in hope for a free lodging there. Lost my direction, but a kind man stopped me from far when he saw I was going the wrong direction. Luckily I heard him, turned back and got his advice. Out of the blue, he asked me about my watch if it was Japanese made! I told him it was made in Finland. On the way, I met a kid who gave me a high five! Encouraged me to walk further!

Finally reached Bangai 11 and it was closed as expected. I called out but unfortunately there was no free lodging even though the guide mentioned otherwise! So, got to kick in my contingency plan, “Camping at the park”. When I was almost there, a car passed by and stopped in front. When I got closer, the driver came out and asked “o-henro-san desu ka” (Are you a henro?) I acknowledged and he gave me a banana and a cake as “o-settai”! I thanked him and passed him a name slip. He left and gave me the impression that he just wanted the name slip! But I was glad to have the banana and cake. Ate the banana immediately.

Reached the park and another event of disaster in the making! I was trying to cross over a fence, which was totally, absolutely, and completely unnecessary, but in the process, I tore my pants!! I hate myself for being a fool again! Soon, I found the toilet and started to look for a good spot around. Found one not so obvious and set up my tent. Around 6:30pm, I left my stuffs there and walked to the nearest convenience store for my dinner. No no, not Circle-K this time! But the dinner was just as good for… 398yen as well!! There even had a place for me to sit in, and so I didn’t have to eat in the cold outside. After dinner, I bought my breakfast and snacks and sat there until 9:40pm to plan for tomorrow, write my name slips and update my blog. It was Christmas mood already and heard a lot of English and Japanese Christmas songs! Started singing along “..last Christmas, I gave you my heart, but the very next day, you gave it away. This year…” Went to the toilet before I returned to my camp. It was cleaner than many hotels! I love Japanese konbini (convenient stores)!! There was even a lucky draw for me and I won a soup!

Came back and cleaned up and then did a surgery on my General Pant, whose wound was pretty deep! I had 8 stitches on it. The operation went well. Hopefully, he could recover soon to serve me again. Here I was sitting at the car park of the park, finishing my blog to be uploaded to the website, with a cup of coffee. It was amazing that I could get a free wifi at this corner of the Imbari City, Ehime Prefecture, Shikoku, Japan! I quickly went to bed at 12am.

Today, I hit my personal best at 33.4km!