20th Nov- Day 14, Bangai 12 (Enmeiji), Temple 65 (Sankakuji), Bangai 13 (Senryuoji)

I set my alarm at 5:45am but couldn’t hear it. Luckily I was awoken by the temple bell at 6am. After breakfast, I just pop over to the Bangai, where I slept last night, to pray. At about 7:39am, I moved on. Today, I decided to give my brother a name, and what would be better other than “Ah Wing”. “德吾德啊，阿WING!” (Are you ok, ah Wing?)

It was more tar road again today. An hour later, I stopped to apply tape on my feet. Forgotten to do it this morning. After 2 hours, my right back was weak. Need to buck up my defence. Sorry, thought of soccer when I mentioned “right back” (a defender position in soccer). Perhaps, my smash was too strong and caused long term injury. Sorry again, thought of badminton now!

Today, it was already sunny and hot by 9 plus! I was thinking it would make it twice the tougher if I was walking in hot sun during summer! At some path, I smelt really nice ginger! I had another usage for my deodorant! On my smelly feet!! Then, at a junction, I heard siren and a police car was coming towards me. Luckily they were not for me!

Soon, I reached the last convenience store along the way. And yes, it was Circle-K! The staff said “Please use the toilet!” I found out that Circle-K was actually originated from North America and have thousands of outlets abroad, including Japan. After filling up my water, I left. But came back shortly when I remembered there was nothing else ahead for the rest of the day! I had my lunch and bought some bread for tea break later. After a few days, I was back in t-shirt again and kept my jacket well this time to make sure it will not slipped off!

On the way, I saw many caterpillars crossing the street! Many didn’t make it! Then, half an hour before I reached the top of Temple 65, I had the urge again! Couldn’t possibly do the unmanly thing again, I held on for like half an hour!! I had to keep breathing in deep and could not stop for rest.

At Temple 65, I met a henro dog! The owner was bringing it around! By now, I knew I had forgotten to get my dinner and breakfast tomorrow! I skipped my tea break, but finished off all my chocolates. There was no food around at Temple 65. Hoping Bangai 13 would have, I continued my journey. The path seemed different from the one showed on the map! It was supposed to be 2.0km of uphill followed by 2.1km of downhill! Instead, I was walking on tar road again! Perhaps, the temple staff thought I was driving when he gave me the direction. I reached somewhere where I should be passing by on my way away from the Bangai 13! But, surprisingly, there were still henro signs! The road was like never ending. There wasn’t any car after more than half an hour! Luckily it was going down slope all the way! After an hour or so, I reached a junction but there was no sign. A car happened to stopped by as well. But, they were lost too and were asking me for direction! I took one of the roads and saw a henro sign. I believed that was the way, since the car was coming from the other, while I was from another. I went back to tell the old woman in the car, but the driver (probably her husband) wasn’t quite interested. They took the same path eventually and drove passed me.

It was another long long walk. I wondered why it was always tough to go to the Bangai! I wasn’t worried at all anymore, about arriving late, about getting dark or a finding place to stay. When you were already sleeping on a bench in the hut, there was nothing much to be worried about anymore. Perhaps, food for now!! I already started thinking of what I had at the moment and rationing in my mind what I should eat later for dinner and breakfast tomorrow! Finally, I saw the light at the end of the tunnel when the sign said 1km away! It took me 2 hours to reach the temple.

The Main and Daishi halls were inside a building! Same as another temple but I had forgotten which. I asked the staff if there were restaurant or food selling around, even though I knew the chances were close to none! Very fortunately, the staff passed me some bread! I thanked her very much and gave her a name slip. Later at the toilet, I met a couple who gave me 2 mandarin oranges as “o-settai” as well. I gave them a name slip too. There was a reason why Hajime-san said it was rule and we should always accept “o-settai”. It was like doing the giver a favour as well, who may not be able to complete the pilgrimage themselves but through “o-settai”, it was kind of signifying that the receiving henro would be doing it for them!

It was 4:18pm already and luckily I did not need to follow the same path that I came from. It would be disaster going uphill for 1 hours plus! Anyway, the other way was only slightly better off. After an hour of struggle, I finally reached the tunnel. It became so quiet at one point in time that I could only hear the annoying cracking sounds made by my shoe! Then, I was trying to look at my watch, I almost trip and hurt my back! After the tunnel, it was another 30 minutes walk in the dark! My first night walk for the trail! But the moon was very bright tonight and light up the road! I also occasionally turned on my small lamp and the traffic signals and signs at the side of the road were all blinking, like Christmas lights!

Finally, I reached the hut to stay for the night and met the two Americans again! We thought the bus stop was the hut, because we couldn’t find the toilet. They set up the tent nearby and I had my dinner. I checked the map again and soon found it! There were even power plugs in the hut!! I spread the good news to the Americans. I cleaned up and they came over shortly to cook. They were very nice to share their dinner with me too. I felt bad for having nothing to share, I volunteered to clean the dishes. Jared and Mason were only 23, from San Diego, California. They were teaching English in Taiwan! We found out that both of us were planning to take the ferry to Shanghai after this pilgrimage! But they would be travelling from Osaka and much earlier too. We exchanged contact. After dinner, they went back to their tents. I went to bed (bench, I meant) around 11pm, when I failed to keep my eyes opened even thought I was left with just the last bit of today’s blog to update.